Famous "St. Elmo's" Lacking the "Fire"

(Stephen and Greg Sklar at St. Elmo's)

What’s in a name? We’ve all heard of Maxim’s or Tavern on the Green, and while many have never eaten there, I think many people just assume that these restaurants didn’t become famous for no reason at all. They must have the fire of great culinary artistry to have earned their reputations, right? Well, not necessarily so…

Indianapolis boasts its own famous steak house known as St. Elmo’s, and my son, Stephen, has tried repeatedly in the past to get us reservations there.  On this last trip to see our boys at Wabash College over Halloween weekend, he finally succeeded. Stephen secured us a coveted table at this legendary steak house for 8:30 pm on a Saturday night.  After prior failed attempts to get in, we were all eager to see if St. Elmo’s was as “hot” a venue as it reputation would indicate.

Prior to dinner Jacque and I headed down to the wine bar at the Conrad where we were all staying for the night.  The wine bar at the Conrad has several stations with a dozen or so bottles of wine connected to a machine allowing you to insert a card and receive a two-ounce pour.  You load your card with money, and each wine has a brief description, its retail bottle price, and its two-ounce pour price.  The machine automatically deducts the price of the pour from your balance.  Brilliantly convenient!

The first wine I tried was a Silver Oaks 2009 Cabernet Sauv – it was one of the priciest tastings available, but I took advantage of the venue to try a wine I had heard a lot about.  It didn’t disappoint, but that doesn’t change the fact that there are many comparably fine wines at a fraction of the price. I was impressed overall with the wide and varied selection, which even included one of our favorite wines NXNW / North by Northwest.  Stephen joined us for a tasting before the four of us headed for a brisk walk from our hotel to St. Elmo’s. 

With a line of people outside, and the bar full of patrons waiting for a seat, we were shown to our table immediately.  Lorenzo our waiter introduced himself and offered me the wine list (http://www.stelmos.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/StElmo-WineList.pdf) I have attached a pdf link, just for your perusing fun.  I admit to being a wine snob, and Jacque and I have a pretty nice collection of wines in our cellar, but I had to look long and hard for a wine that would meet both my budget requirements and pallet.  

Finally, I ordered a bottle of Frog’s Leap 2009 Cabernet from Napa.  I was disappointed when Lorenzo offered me the customary taste and I noticed a chill to the wine.  Red wine, particularly a cabernet and your heavier reds, should be served somewhere between 60 on the low end and 68 on the high end.  For the price of wines on their list, and to truly enjoy a fine wine as part of an overall dining experience, I think it would have been totally acceptable to have opened the wine at the table and then allowed it to breath, or decanted it while suggesting that it needs a little time to come up to temperature.  I recognize, nevertheless, that with a wine inventory as extensive as the one at St. Elmo’s, not all wines will be at the perfect serving temperature. And, of course, you are better off storing wine cooler than warmer.   While the chill was a tad disappointing, once our wine came up to temperature, it opened nicely and had beautiful full tannins that lingered in the mouth but did not settle and stay.  It was a great wine to be enjoyed with a nice big steak.

(Yes, that is all horseradish)

The night before our visit to St. Elmo’s we were told by several of Stephen and Greg’s frat bothers at the Sigma Chi house that we were to try the world famous Shrimp Cocktail.  We were warned that it was extra hot made with lots of fresh horseradish, but absolutely awesome.  We were also told that one was probably enough to share between a few people if we were planning on indulging in steaks as our main course.  Lorenzo brought us a shrimp cocktail for Stephen, Gregory and Jacque to share – I don’t eat shellfish.  The reports from all three, evidenced by the beads of sweat and nostrils clearing, were that it was most definitely hot.  Still, while hot, none of them found it overpowering. The five shrimps covered a house cocktail sauce that was more fresh minced horseradish than sauce. The shrimp were a nice size and quite fresh.  Even if you are not going to have dinner at St. Elmo’s, I suggest a drink in the bar and a shrimp cocktail as an appetizer.  An online review revealed that you can purchase their sauce to take home (http://www.stelmos.com/cocktail-sauce/st-elmo-steak-house-bottle-cocktail-sauce/)

(For my appetizer, I had a simple glass of tomato juice.  This too is a St Elmo's tradition)

For our soup and salads, Jacque had their traditional navy bean soup, Stephen and Greg had Caesar Salads, and I had to try the tomatoes, onions, and blue cheese in vinaigrette.  My salad was great!  I love this traditional steak house salad.  In St. Elmo’s case they served it using nice ripe but firm tomatoes, with onions which were not over powering and which were cut nice and thin but not paper-thin.  Plenty of blue cheese crumbled over the top.  The vinergarette dressing – awesome and lots of it.

Stephen talked me into swapping salads half way through and his Caesar was also really good.  No anchovies, but plenty of anchovy paste in the dressing.  I love Caesar salads too; I have given several speeches around the making of a Caesar dressing emphasizing that the individual ingredients as stand alone foods are pretty un-appetizing to most folks (raw egg yolks, Dijon mustard, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, anchovies and or anchovy paste, salt and pepper), but when you put them all together you get a salad that you pay a premium for in most restaurants and it does not even have tomatoes and cucumbers on it. 

(the sautéed mushrooms were great!!!)

Regarding the main dish, remember this: the main thing has to be the main thing.  I have heard several speakers say this, and have heard several people quote this. Who said it first is not as important as the fact that the main thing has to be the main thing.  When going to a great steak house the steaks have to be great; they are the main thing! Our main courses came as ordered and to the desired temperatures.  While the steaks were good, were they phenomenal?  Stephen’s steak (rib eye) had more fat than I would have expected, and my steak was heavy in the seasoning, particularly salt.  I think a great piece of meat should be able to stand on its own with minimal seasoning.  This is also why I tend to always go with a New York cut versus Jacque who traditionally will order the smallest filet mignon on the menu.  I like the marbling that you typically find in a New York steak; (my cholesterol levels probably don’t prefer it). Jacque likes the tenderness of the filet and the fact that a really good filet could be cut easily with a butter knife.  A restaurant will always score extra points with Jacque if the filet comes wrapped in bacon.

(Jacque's Filet)

Note to self – write a blog about the steak knives.  Some steak houses make a true statement by the knives they give you.  The Keg restaurant in Kelowna, BC, gives you a knife Davey Crockett would have been proud to have carried on the frontiers…but that could be a whole blog on its own.

(Creme Brûlée with lots of spoons)

For our St. Elmo’s dessert, I have one word – no, make that two: Crème Brulee. Jacque is a huge fan of Crème Brulee.  We have had Crème Brulee literally all over the world.  I can’t remember seeing a Crème Brulee on a dessert menu and it not being ordered.  Again, like the rest of the dining experience, we enjoyed sharing the Crème Brulee as our dessert, (one was enough for all of us); it was good, but not phenomenal. 

In closing, if you have never been to St. Elmo’s you should experience it, if not just for the shrimp cocktail.  But the real question is did St. Elmo’s have all the “fire” its reputation should warrant? Would we return as a family next time we are looking for a great steakhouse in Indianapolis? Well, let’s just say, if you need to contact us when we’re there, you will probably find us at the Capitol Grill. 

(The guys in the kitchen always deserve recognition.  I love going to restaurants that allow you to see their hard working kitchen crew.  No matter what you think of the meal, always take a minute to thank these guys on your way out!)